A Guide to Antique Diamond Cuts
Not all diamonds are cut the same way — and if you've ever held an antique diamond ring next to a modern one, you'll have noticed the difference immediately. The light returns differently. The stone feels different. That's not sentiment — it's the cut.
Here's what you need to know about the three cuts you'll encounter most often when buying antique diamond jewellery.
The Old Mine Cut
The old mine cut was the dominant diamond cut from the mid-1700s through to the late 1800s. It has a cushion-shaped outline, a high crown, a small flat table at the top, and a large open culet — the flat facet at the base of the stone — which often appears as a dark circle when you look down through the top.
Each old mine cut diamond was shaped by hand, which means no two are identical. The broad facets return light in large, warm flashes rather than the sharp sparkle of a modern brilliant. In candlelight or low light, old mine cuts are extraordinary.
The Rose Cut
The rose cut dates to the 1500s and remained popular through the Victorian period. It has a flat base with no pavilion — the lower half of a modern diamond — and a domed crown covered in triangular facets rising to a point. In profile it looks
exactly like a rosebud, which is where the name comes from.
Because rose cuts have no pavilion, they sit very low in their settings and have a soft, almost glowing quality rather than a hard sparkle. They are particularly beautiful in Georgian and early Victorian pieces, where the foil-backed closed settings they were traditionally mounted in enhanced their natural light.
The Old European Cut
Developed in the 1880s, the old European cut is the direct predecessor of the modern round brilliant. It is round, with a small table, high crown, and a larger culet than modern cuts. The facets are broader and the light return is warmer and more romantic than a contemporary diamond.
Old European cuts are the most commonly found antique diamond in Victorian and Edwardian jewellery, particularly in cluster rings, five-stone rings and engagement rings. They are increasingly sought after by buyers who want the warmth and character of an antique stone in a wearable setting.
What about colour and clarity?
Antique diamonds were cut before the GIA grading system existed, which means they were never graded in the modern sense. Most fall somewhere in the G to J colour range — slightly warm rather than colourless — which suits their character and the yellow gold they are typically set in.
Inclusions in antique diamonds are part of their story. A small feather or crystal inclusion in a stone that has been worn for 150 years is not a flaw — it is evidence of history. Collectors often value these characteristics rather than working against them.
Why antique diamonds matter
An antique diamond has already existed for over a century. It was mined, cut and set long before modern extraction methods, which makes it as sustainable a stone as you can find. It carries the marks of the craftsman who cut it and the person who wore it.
That is something a new diamond cannot offer.