Pocket Watch Chains — A Buyer's Guide
The pocket watch chain is one of the most overlooked pieces of antique jewellery — and one of the most wearable. Long before the wristwatch existed, a chain was as essential to a well-dressed man as his shoes. Understanding what you're looking at makes all the difference when buying one.
A brief history
The pocket watch chain came into its own in the 17th century alongside the waistcoat. As the waistcoat became a staple of gentlemen's dress, the watch chain evolved with it — not just as a practical way to secure a pocket watch, but as a genuine status symbol. The quality of your chain said something about who you were.
The Albert chain
Named after Prince Albert, consort to Queen Victoria, the Albert is the classic single pocket watch chain. A T-bar passes through the buttonhole of the waistcoat, with the chain running across the front and the pocket watch attached at the other end via a swivel clasp. A small drop chain at the T-bar end allowed a watch fob, medal or charm to be attached.
The Albert is the most commonly found antique watch chain and the most versatile — it can be worn as originally intended or draped as a necklace.
The Double Albert
The Double Albert runs two chains from the T-bar rather than one. The second chain was originally used to hold the key that wound the pocket watch — as keyless winding became standard, it became a fashion accessory in its own right, used to carry a vesta case, sovereign case, cigarette holder or pocket knife.
Double Alberts are among the most desirable antique watch chains. The weight, symmetry and presence of a good double albert is something quite different from a single chain.
What to look for when buying
Metal — the finest chains are solid gold (9ct or 18ct) or sterling silver. These were made for serious money and built to last. Rolled gold and pinchbeck examples exist and are collectable in their own right, but solid metal is the benchmark.
Hallmarks — the very best chains are hallmarked to every individual link. This is exactly as time consuming as it sounds, and it tells you everything about the quality of the piece. When you find a chain hallmarked link by link, you have found something worth keeping.
Graduated links — on the finest chains, the links are not all the same size. They graduate from smaller at the ends to larger in the centre, then back again. This is a sign of craftsmanship and quality that was particularly prized in the Victorian era.
Length and weight — a good chain has substance. Pick it up and you should feel it. Length varies — measure against yourself before buying if you plan to wear it.
A note on condition
Antique watch chains have survived a great deal. The best examples have been worn daily, carried through two World Wars, and are still sound and wearable today. That is a testament to how well they were made. Minor surface wear is expected and honest — what matters is that the links are all present, the clasps function, and the hallmarks are legible.